Postcards from Plinius: Secret Italy

Travel back in time and discover the landscape of Sabina

With a capital like Rome, it’s no surprise that the rest of Lazio often gets overlooked. But just like the locals, it’s worth leaving the city behind. You’ll discover a region that’s not just beautiful—lush and hilly up north, rugged and dry down south—but also full of history and culture.

I travelled to the Sabina region, just 45 minutes north of Rome, and I completely fell in love with the green hills, the poppyseed fields, the beautiful old villages, and the warm, charming locals.

I spent three days here at our beautiful N092 with Alie and barely heard any non-Italian spoken.

Come along with me on my journey:

Shopping in Poggio Mirteto:

We drove to one of the bigger villages in this area, Poggio Mirteto. Here we started our day with coffee and pastries at Tony’s bar. Followed by a little shopping round.

Not to miss in Poggio Mirteto:

• Tony’s bar - For a cup of coffee with wonderful pastries or for an aperitivo at the end of the day

• Questo e Quello - A beautiful family run grocery store. Founded by Marino and Antonella. Marino and Antonella never set out to preach the old Latin saying mens sana in corpore sano—“a healthy mind in a healthy body”— They know that what we eat shapes us. And at Questo e Quello, that means serving simple, honest food that brings people together.

• E non solo carne - which literally means, and not just meat. Beyond high Quality meat they have a well-stocked selection of local cheeses, as well as regional and national wines. It’s a beautiful little Butcher shop where you can also have a small meal.

• La Chianina - This Slow Food restaurant is from the same owners as the Butcher shop. They serve authentic, locally sourced meats and traditional Italian dishes.

Some favorite restaurant’s around:

• Bar Cè - An 8 minute drive from Poggio Mirteto you find this bar with a stunning view, unfortunately it was closed when we drove up there, but i’d love to go back and Enjoy a pasta with a view!

Bar cè, Catino, Rieti, Italië

• Ecofatterie Sabine - Because our first choice Bar cè was closed, Alie came up with another favorite of her: Ecofatteria Sabine. This is an organic farm and agriturismo, renowned for its artisanal sheep’s milk cheeses and eco-friendly initiatives. The farm-to-table restaurant and tranquil countryside setting offer the authentic flavors and warmth of the Sabina region.

• Caffè Bernabucci Trattoria. Before Alie dropped me off at the station to continue my journey to Rome, we enjoyed lunch at one of her favorite local spots. Tucked right next to the station, it was buzzing with locals grabbing a quick bite during their lunch break. It was such a charming place—and the food was delicious—so I had to share it with you.

Villages where time stood still

For those who love to wander, the Sabina region is dotted with ancient hilltop villages that seem frozen in time:

1. Collevecchio

2. Cantalupo in Sabina

3. Casperia

Of these three villages, Casperia is definitely the most well known, and I think that’s thanks to the beautiful Osteria Vigna. It’s perfectly located and the ideal spot for an aperitivo or dinner, especially with those stunning views.

Osteria Vigna

Where we stayed

For these three days, we stayed at N092 — one of our stunning villa’s just 45 minutes from Rome, surrounded by lush gardens and an organic vegetable patch. Built in the early 20th century with Tiber River stone, the villa blends historic charm with modern comfort. From every room, you’re treated to serene views of the garden and the rolling hills, making it the perfect place to unwind and truly embrace the slow pace of life here. They also have a smaller place, just next to this one, that is N093

Both are available at plinius-homes.com

N092 Plinius Homes