Plinius Travel Notebook 02: Palermo
Where We Go to Celebrate & Get Inspired - the travel continues to Palermo
After chilling on Pantelleria for a week, I was really looking forward to the buzz of this city!
Palermo has been on my list for a looong time—partly because I imagined myself eating granitas and arancini all day, but also because I saw myself wandering endlessly through all the beautiful Baroque buildings, admiring stunning artworks, and getting lost in the botanical garden. And honestly, that pretty much sums up my days in Palermo!
Read here, what we saw, where we eat and where we stayed.
What We Saw
Monastero di Santa Caterina d'Alessandria
This former convent was home to cloistered nuns who were famous for their traditional Sicilian pastries. This spot was one of the first things I saved, as I often came across the beautiful bakery “I Segreti del Chiostro” on Instagram. However, more people must have seen it there too, as there was a huge line—so that was not for me. Still, the monastery, with its beautiful tiles and open courtyard, is definitely worth a visit.
Palazzo Butera
I was actually very, very impressed with this museum and would really recommend it—maybe even more for the building and its amazing renovation than for the art itself. The museum is housed in one of the most beautiful Baroque palaces, which recently underwent a major restoration. The renovation beautifully preserved its original features—like the grand staircase, frescoes, and marble floors—while also adapting it to house contemporary art collections. The courtyard, with its beautiful old tree (whose roots they exposed as an artwork), and the amazing rooftop terrace with those beautiful tiles, were especially stunning.
They also have a nice little museum restaurant on the rooftop, which is great for a coffee break.
Orto Botanico
Yes, Palermo can definitely be a bit chaotic and overwhelming, and even in September, it can still be pretty hot. So I really loved escaping to this beautiful botanical garden, leaving the buzz of the city far behind. I brought my book and after wandering around, I sat down for a while soaking in the peace. After the Botanical garden we went to Bar Vabres, just one street away from the entrance, there we enjoyed the best arancini in town and a nice little apero. (they also do amazing coffees)
Palazzo dei Normanni
Home to Sicily’s Parliament and the beautiful Palatine Chapel with stunning mosaics, this is Palermo at it’s finest. And now I get where the Sicilian brand Ortigia gets its inspiration from.
Ballaro market
Lively, chaotic, and packed with street food and fresh produce.
Museo delle Maioliche
I loved this tile museun as it is a personal collection started by Giovanni di Stefano, who began collecting tiles at the age of 8! The collection is displayed in his own home, which makes it feel so special. Isn’t it amazing to have such a passion for something? I really enjoyed the homey, intimate vibe it had and the tiles are very pretty!
Where we Ate
First thing we did after dropping our suitcases at the apartment, Grabbing an arancina at Antica foccacceria di San Francesco, the oldest and most famous place for street food. Then we headed to Dal Barone, a super cozy wine bar tucked away in one of Palermo’s nicest little streets, lined with bars and buzzing with life. We sat down on simple stools, ordered some tasty snacks, sipped on natural wine, and just soaked up the vibe.
For a coffee, i loved this coffee bar, Bar del Corso. One of the most spartan cafés in the old town, where Signor Baldo greets you without a smile and behind a mountain of coffee cups to clean, but the coffee is really good. Known to artists and locals alike. Sigor Baldo is one of the mythological characters of the old town.
OJDA, is the place where we would go for lunch and cocktails in the afternoon.
In the evening I highly recommend going to Osteria Ballarò, the kitchen is known for it’s authentic Sicilian cuisine and it is also associated with the Slow Food movement. The food and the wines were really good. And I loved the ambiance!
On Sundat morning we went to the fleamarket on Piazza Marina and had breakfast (cannoli, caffe and Granita) here at Caffe Lucá.
I found this place to be a great lunch spot—our Airbnb host recommended it (and gave us a huuuuge list of amazing tips!). They offer a large buffet of classic Palermo dishes. You buy tickets at the bar, pick your dishes at the counter, and bring them to your table yourself. Wine in a plastic cup for just €1, and sitting among the locals—I love places like this!
Later that day, we had a granita at Q-Tuppo, as the waiter from the restaurant the night before told us they serve the best in town.
A friend recommended this place to me, and I also saw it listed on the Slow Food app (I always love these spots), so of course, I had to try it. We absolutely loved it and enjoyed a beautiful evening outside on the courtyard with nice Sicilian red wine.
Where we stayed
I absolutely adored the Airbnb we stayed at! The host was super friendly and gave us a long list of the best tips for the city. The apartment was quite spacious and decorated in a wonderfully maximalist and authentic style—it really made me feel at home in Palermo and gave me the feeling of living in the city for a long weekend.
If you're interested, I can put you in touch with the owner—just email me at shari@plinius.homes.
I also wanted to share this incredible place—one I’d love to stay at when I return to Palermo, maybe with friends, as it accommodates up to eight people. I love everything about this seaside villa: the architecture, the location, the endless sea views, the stunning sight of Capo Zafferano, and the effortlessly cool interior.
Inspired by this philosophy, architect Armando Barraja designed the villa in the late 1980s as a summer retreat for his family. Rooted in Modernist principles, it stands as a bold modernist and rationalist statement, defined by its striking architectural form and thoughtful use of materials.
You can book it here.
After an amazing long weekend in Palermo, we continued our journey through western Sicily—I'll share more about it in my next post!
Buon fine settimana!
Shari
Adore Palermo-
I loooooove Palermo! This makes me want to go back right away.